It wasn't the first time for me, but it was for everyone else. For those folks who have discovered the Isles of Shoals, nine rocky islands forming an archipelago off the Maine and New Hampshire border (which runs directly through the islands), the name evokes romanticism. Celia's Garden, Babb's Cove, Siren's Cove, Miss Underhill's Chair. Salt spray. Sea birds. Sunsets.
Yes, I'd been there before. In fact, I'd written a book about its history with two coauthors, Don Cann and Gayle Kadlik, Images of America: Isles of Shoals. I'd gone through my own moments of discovery in years passed. Uncle Oscar. The Appledore House. The Gosport Chapel. White Island Light. The Oceanic House. Sandpiper Beach.
So it seemed like a natural to arrange a trip to the islands for Mass Audubon, and for me to co-lead it. My projected co-leader, who desperately wanted to see "the Shoals," had to back out with twelve hours before kickoff. So Amy Quist, our newsest team member at South Shore Sanctuaries, jumped in. We started with some uninspiring birding in the midday sun at Plum Island and fried oysters at Bob Lobster. From there, it was up to Portsmouth and the Shoals Marine Lab dock for the ride to Appledore. Bonaparte's gulls greeted us on the way out of the mouth of the Piscataqua River, as did Whaleback Light and the tired looking Wood Island Life-Saving Station. In less than an hour, we were there, greeted by the lab staff. The Shoals Marine Lab is jointly
run by the University of New Hampshire and Cornell University. Our visit coincided with the studies of a group of students working on the issue of sustainability and the carbon footprint the lab makes each day. As we loped around the island in search of birds and history, they toiled at their computers and in their classrooms. We would come together during meals throughout the weekend.
We checked into Founders Hall, dropping our bags into dorm-style housing. I shared a room with three other men, two of whom were separated from their wives for the next two nights by the arrangement. We met outdoors for our first walk of the trip, to Sandpiper Beach. We meandered down the stairs towards Babb's Cove, running across
a muddy spot known as "the swale," where solitary and spotted sandpipers would spend the weekend picking away, sharing their feeding grounds with several least sandpipers, or "leasties." We passed the banding station, which was having a slow day, and pulled up in front of Celia's Garden, a site we'd visit several times in the next few days.
We poked around past "the swimming pool," a saltwater creation of the Laighton family in the 1800s that has outlasted the hotel for whose patrons it was concocted, and around the northwest corner of the island. We passed the northern reservoir where artist William Morris Hunt drowned himself so many years ago, and headed for the ledge overlooking the Devil's Dance Floor.
Dinner came, and then free time before lights out. Apparently, the gulls of the island, almost exclusively herring and great black-backed gulls, don't quite understand the concept of "lights out." They kept their noise up into the wee hours, lowering their calls to a decibel level still powerful enough to keep light sleepers awake.
Then, it happened. The sun rose, 5:20 a.m. The lulled gulls kicked into their version of the morning chorus, some just inches from our heads. Nobody spoke, but we were all awake. Are you kidding me? Thousands of gulls on the islands all start this early, this loudly, and we were subjecting ourselves to two mornings of this treatment? A staff member later told me that she had a dream one night that she was pumping up a rubber raft with a foot pump that gave the same wheeze as a young herring gull begging for food, only to wake up and find that gull really outside her window.
So we were up. Breakfast was at 7:30, and our boat trip was at 10. We ate and wandered down to the banding station for the first time, meeting bander David Holmes and his "band-aid," fifteen year-old Jeff. They had a bird in hand, a female American redstart, and gave our gang a show. They allowed us to walk the traplines with them, but we came up empty. We exchanged cell phone numbers, with promises to share sightings. We wandered off to see the Laighton family burial ground, Celia, Cedric, Oscar, mom and dad.
At ten we boarded the Heiser and headed for the exposed, raw geological features of Duck Island, Mingo Rock, Old Henry and more. Harbor seals met us on the inside of the islands, and gray seals on the outside. Rafts of common eiders floated by in big numbers, and ruddy turnstones inspected the rocks for food. We shot through the passage between Appledore and Smuttynose, by the Devil's Glen, past Dollar Rock, and headed for White Island Light, its lighthouse and the White/Seavey common tern colony. We circled Lunging Island, formerly the home of Uncle Oscar, and headed into Gosport Harbor. Stepping ashore on Star Island, we toured the Oceanic House, wandered out back to the Gosport Chapel and the Tucke Monument. We headed for the Smith Monument and the rocky southern shore, stopping at the old burial sites and, eventually, dropping way too much money in the island book shop.
I have to admit I was a bit sly. I knew the islands were small, and that our gang would have dsome down time. I hinted at the historical inconsistencies in the accounts of the Smuttynose murders, the tale that later became the novel The Weight of Water. I coaxed them into researching the story while they were there. At times, I'd step out onto the porch and find three noses in three books on three rocking chairs as the sun was going down. There's nothing like a murder mystery to get the juices flowing. That afternoon, we headed south, or at least planned to. The call came in. A sharp-shinned hawk had been caught in the nets!
We rushed across the swale, past the cove, to the banding station. We got an amazing up-close education moment. The run was on. Last year, the station banded three sharpies in three days. Since we arrived on island, they'd caught two. They'd make a third capture before we left.
So we moved south, past the old life-saving station, finding the foundation of the old academy for wayward boys, Crystal Lake (the hotel's ancient ice pond), and finally the rocky southern coast that offered views of Lunging, White, Star, Cedar and Smuttynose. We sat and accepted the sun's rays. A northern gannet, a youngster, zipped past, dipping a wing on the ocean's surface. We continued to sit, finding no reason to head back to our hall.
Dinner came, and we decided that if we lived on island for more than three days, we'd need to start a daily calisthenics routine. Some of us watched helplessly as a quick-
moving gull swiped a burger from a plate just feet away. As he had a band on his leg, we took his number: C58. We stuck around for the 8 p.m. presentation by the students working on sustainability, exchanging ideas for the betterment of the island. One birder, John, and I met with Mr. Holmes to compile the day's list. "When I was a young bander," Mr. Holmes said, "we considered thirty birds a bad day. Today we banded nine." Southerly winds were no help for this man and his trade. We headed home for one final evening's slumber.
Thank heavens for cloudy mornings. The gulls slept in until 5:50, giving us all a fighting chance. Those of us who roused early headed for the deck of the commisary. From there we were we could see from Boone Island, Maine, past Nubble Light in York, past Mt. Agamenticus, down the New Hampshire coast, all the way to Plum Island and Newburyport, Massachusetts. To the north, I called out an approaching bald eagle, a second-year bird that put thousands of gulls up into the air in fear. What power to hold! It continued in a straight line, oblivious of the effects of its mere presence, and disappeared to the south.
We had a plan of attack. We would start at Siren's Cove, visit the banding station, and then look for the rarity of rarities, the island's hybrid herring-lesser black-backed gull. The banding station was picking up pace. When we arrived, Mr. Holmes had a northern waterthrush in hand. Band-aid Jeff ran the lines while we scrutinized the bird, returning with a red-eyed vireo. Amy got the chance to release the bird and return it to the wild.
From there, we walked for Broad Cove, where Uncle Oscar landed his boat Twilight when the western shore was too rough. Gull Wrangler Bill, a volunteer from Pennsylvania, joined us on the walk and helped in our search. We came back empty, save for the filling lecture and anecdotes about the life histories of gulls he offered in the absence of our visual quarry.
After brunch, I offered to take anybody anywhere they wanted for the last few hours of our stay. We headed for Crystal Lake and the tidepools on the southern end of the island. Amy found herself a nice, wet, cooling seaweed scarf. Anne dipped her feet in the water. John and I scanned for birds passing the islands. But our time was up. We returned to Founders Hall, packed our bags, and headed home.
The list of birds we'd seen was interesting - an immature Baltimore oriole, a northern flicker on an island without trees, several sharp-shinned hawks, a passing whimbrel, a posing snowy egret. The Smuttynose Murders remained a mystery in the minds of
many of our gang, while others thought they had it figured out. In any event, our trip had come to an end. I told our gang that while I would never steal the term "real old Shoalers" from the Laightons, the Thaxters, the Haleys and the other early families of the islands, the next time anyone asked them if they'd been to the Isles of Shoals, they could now say, "Oh, sure, Ive spent some time on Appledore. I'm an old Shoaler."